welshkate

Mark Pastick is a surf kayak instructor, based out of Santa Cruz, CA. In 2005, Mark coached the US West team to victory at the World Championships in Costa Rica. I am posting this article by kind permission- thanks Mark!

Embrace the Pillow While Surf Kayaking

While educating new kayak surfers to our wonderful sport I often tell them to embrace the pillow. No not the one you snuggled against last night while your mother tucked you in. This pillow appears after the wave breaks. That pile of white water that could be something quite small that requires a simple soup hop over or quite large. LARGE like when you are confronted by it you start speaking in tongues saying “o my god” just before the big impact that hits and has you rag dolling as the pillow sweeps you toward the beach or cliffs like you were dust in front of a giant broom. Get the Idea? How do you deal with this. This is especially important now that winter is upon us and the waves just seem to be getting bigger and bigger.  

Last Dick Wold surf class I took was all about soup hopping. This requires you to rock the boat by leaning on the back deck to lift the bow up so that you can hop over the top of the pillow. Timing is everything in this maneuver. By striking the pillow as the foamy wall of water contacts you with enough forward momentum you can hop over the pillow with great success with waves from .5 – 3 ft face height. This rocking maneuver is also important to initiate a floater which while surfing will carry you on top of a wave thats breaking enabling you to float down the breaking face in style. On bigger waves this is not an option. The foam pile will hit you hard and proceed to carry you away. There are several techniques or tools you have before and during this dynamic event. First you can paddle swiftly out of the waves path usually perpendicular to the large object coming at you. This procedure works quite well especially when you’ve been watching the waves for a while and know where the greatest amount of foaming wave will be and avoiding it. Sometimes its best to go outside and sometimes its best to go inside and hit the pile that has already lost its energy. When I hit the foam pile I try to thrust my paddle into it and lean forward so you protect your face as the foam pile is striking me. Similar to setting up for a roll. Some of us old timers call this the home position. Like Dorothy on the Wizard of OZ says while she was carried away by the tornado. “I just want to go home”. This maximizes your streamline ability to cut through the breaking wave and your set up for your next paddle stroke as you come out through the other side. The more you can streamline and create forward momentum by thrusting your paddle and body forward the greater success you will have at breaking through to the other side.  

Avoid the impact zone which is where the top of a fresh breaking wave come down to greet the bottom of the wave impacts this smooth surface then creates enough power to carry the spray higher than the amplitude of the wave. Ouch. If you cannot avoid the impact zone I recommend not taking this hit on your head. Instead try taking a deep breath go upside down and let the bottom of your boat absorb the impact. More often than not you will pop up on the ocean side of the foam pile. Remember to not get into waves that are over your abilities. Sometimes, waves appear to be smaller while looking at them on the beach far away. Then when your upon them they become hideous monsters. Always have a exit strategy or back up in your game plan that enables you to make it back to the beach. This usually involves surfing with others. Class 5 white water boaters usually fall prey to this situation thinking that the ocean will act like a river go for something they are not familiar with. Then? Find a surf friendly beach then start working your way up the ladder. Carry and wear appropriate safety gear: sponge, floatation, PFD, Helmet, clothing suitable for the conditions and practice polite surf etiquette. Have fun and play safe.