welshkate

I thought that 2.8 ft at 16 seconds would give up good surf at agate. Although it sounds small, simialar conditions last week offered up double overhead for my friend Dale.  One thing i didn’t consider was the southern swell. Waves were rebounding with force off the headland causing messy surf. Peaks were random and unpredictable and faces ranged 4-6 ft.  I was dying to try out my new outfitting in my surfboat. I had some fun rides, getting in some bottom and top turns. Hearing the fins hum was cool and i was enjoying the speed compared to my playboat. However, I chose the wrong location to paddle out and I payed the price in closeout, shallow beach break- a fairly nasty place to flip, as Pete explained in a previous post. Alas, I joined the Agate Beach swim team. I was in 2-3 ft of water, and had 2 choices, roll the fastest I’ve ever rolled or swim and swim immediately, before the wave recedes and I eat a sand sandwich. Due to the nature of my surf boat, I chose the later. In 4 years of kayak surfing, I’ve only swum once before. Last night I had my arse handed to me.  And the waves munched one of the foot tunnel outfittings that I’d lovingly  sculpted the night before. At least it worked fine for, well, 6 waves. Humbled and ego bruised, I think I’ll take my playboat out next time.