Shot some SUP stuff all day. And a tiny bit of kayaking.

Nikon D700, Nikon 75-150 E Series, Tamron 1.4 TC @ 1/800 F5.6 (aka 8 with a TC) ISO 200
More on the teleconverter later…
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incoming rain

Nikon D700, Nikkor 300 4.5 EDIF + Tamron 1.4 TC @ 1/800 F8 ISO 220 – with some heavy post processing.
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Some of the most amazing places in the world. The reward of progressing through all of California’s tough rivers is the chance to run one of these unforgettable expeditions. This post is also going to be a (in my opinion) difficulty listing for the classic multi-days, so some runs will be reiterated from the last post.
The joys of remote wilderness camping.

Upper Cherry Creek ** Popular, well known and good bit of hiking, but with a moonscape wonderland and great rapids.

Jefferson State Creeking
Dinkey Creek ** A personal favorite, almost too good to be true.

Jefferson State Creeking
North Fork San Joaquin ** Quite a bit of hiking (9 in 3 out) but beautiful scenery and unique rapids.

Jefferson State Creeking
Fantasy Falls ** A fantasy land of tough boulder gardens, deep gorges and big slides. You can go big in here. A personal favorite for the scenery and variety.

Jefferson State Creeking
Royal Gorge ** Big rapids, and a high concentration of gigantic waterfalls that can be run. Cold water, short window.

Gutters of the Earth
Adventure Sports Journal
Middle Kings ** Epic in every sense, from hiking over 12,000′ Bishop Pass to the countless class V rapids.

Jefferson State Creeking
8th River
Upper Middle Kaweah ** Not the longest, most grueling run, but some of the toughest, boxed in rapids you’ll ever have to run.

Jefferson State Creeking
Middle Fork San Joaquin ** As tough as it’s rumored to be. Unlike many of the other classics, water levels are better at medium low than medium high.

Jefferson State Creeking
Huckin Huge
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A quick one of the day thanks to Arlyn:
Will Stubblefield getting in the NC Groove Tube

Canon Digital Rebel, Canon 18-55 @ 21mm 1/800 F3.5 ISO 100
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As I’ve said before, somehow in the process of becoming a photographer, gear becomes addictive. I’ve been raving about primes and old manual focus lenses for a while, so what on earth is this doing in my bag? Convenience was the name of the day in this purchase, it’s moderately fast (3.5) on the wide end, terribly slow (5.6) in the telephoto range, and I am not sure how much use it will see. Like all lenses it needs to be stopped down to see best performance, but it’s better wide open that the Nikkor 24mm 2.8 AIS wide open. Much larger than the 24mm 2.8, but only 1oz heavier than the 75-150 Series E. Perhaps it will just end up on ebay in a few months, but you never know.
Much better reputation (and performance) than Nikon’s 24-120, the Tamron SP AF 24-135mm F/3.5-5.6 AD:

Compared to the smaller and lighter Nikkor 24mm 2.8 AIS.

Tamron SP AF 24-135mm F/3.5-5.6 AD and Stephen Wright on the Upper Middle Cosumnes.

Nikon D700, Tamron 24-135 @ 52mm 1/800 F6.3 ISO 1600
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not the kind you run
Michael Novak, Sacramento River.

Nikon D700, Nikon 75-150 Series E @ 1/800 F5.6 ISO 1600
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Devin Knight getting into the California groove tube.

Nikon D200, Nikkor 20mm 2.8 @ 1/1250 F10 ISO 250
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A pretty straightforward way to maximize the outfitting in your Jackson Kayak. What you’ll need: An electric drill and medium sized drill bit. As they say, you have to break some eggs to make an omelet. In this case we’re drilling holes in a whitewater kayak. Don’t worry, it will still float.
Stephen Wright is the pioneer of this process, it’s not for all body types but works wonders for some. Maybe it’s a short person thing, cause it works for me too.
It’s worth noting that the 2010 Crosslink Jackson boats come outfitted in a very similar matter, and linear less so. The time to put in extra holes greatly increases production cost, and I’d rather do it myself than pay more for a boat.
The goal is to get the hip pads mounted higher so they help hold you in the boat. I found for my body they were more “butt pads” than hip pads with the factory setup. To do this we’ll add two holes to the cockpit rim, one in front of the seat mounting tab and one behind. See the image below for hole placement.

When using the drill it’s possible to go through both layers of plastic and end up with a hole through outside cockpit rim. Bad news! To avoid this use a high rpm on the drill and light pressure, going slow. If you press down too hard on the drill, it’s likely to bite in and start pulling it’s own way through, possibly through that second layer. I make the front hole horizontal and the rear vertical. I’d imagine both could be vertical, but be sure the rear one is, otherwise it will be tough to get the webbing through.
To feed the strap through, push it through the front hole first, then pull enough through to loop it behind the seat attachment. Once you have it behind the seat, go up through the last hole and then back down to the buckle. I put my backband above the hip pad mounting webbing. Tighten it up!

How much of a difference? Check out the side view, the hip pads sit slightly higher than the rim of the cockpit.

Since I had the drill out, I decided to do more while I was at it. People did this fairly often on the Dagger boats when they had the heavy rotomolded seat/front pillar combo. I just did it to the bulkhead in my Hero. It probably only saves an ounce per brace, and takes too long to make it worthwhile to do at the factory, but if you have the free time, why not?

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A sweet day on the Upper Middle Cosumnes, Stephen Wright enjoying both the Villain and a sweet rapid:

Nikon D700, Nikkor 200mm F4 AIS @ 1/1000 F5.6 ISO 800
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Last week I just did an interview with Adrian at Playak. Then I had a great weekend of paddling 49 to Bridgeport followeda mellow day around the house. Now it’s Monday, and off to one of my favorites, the Upper Middle Cosumnes.
Backyard exotic zoo!

Nikon D700, Phoenix 100mm 3.5 Macro (cheap!) @ 1/125, F8, ISO 1600
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